Since you can't currently run the engine, and you are not completely sure where the leak is you may feel better pulling the engine and resealing everything you can. Oil has the unfortunate habit of looking like it is coming from places where it is not. The leak could be anyplace for all I can tell. If the leak is in the cylinder bore then boring and sleeving will cure it. The 7.3 did have some history of porous block leaks due to casting problems. As far as I know you should have no problem removing and resealing the rear plate on your engine with the pan on.Īs for the guy with the coolant in his oil: Cavitation is rarely an issue on parent bore block engines. Sometimes heating the ring with a propane torch will expand it enough to enable you to pry it off. A very light coating of silicone on the crank before installation will stop any possible leak. If you are careful you won't leave a mark on the crank. Drive it thru the wear ring from back to front to split it. If you don't have a disruptor tool you can use a small, very sharp chisel. The hardest part is removing the old wear ring from the crank. I have a standing rule that anything that comes in our shop and has the tranny or drive housings pulled gets a new seal. If you don't, very likely the next problem you have will be a leaky seal. I cut a piece of aluminum hat section and drilled it for two of the flywheel bolts and used that to press the seal and wear ring in place.Īlways change the rear seal anytime the transmission is out. It and the seal have to go on as one piece.
You just need a tool to press on the seal wear ring on the end of the crankshaft. Not enough to drip on the driveway, but I had the tranny out to do the clutch, so replaced the RMS while I was in there. The rear main seal on my engine was seeping enough oil on my engine that it was wetting the corners of the pan and drooling down the side. I'm not sure that the rear cover can be removed without first removing the pan, but it might be worth a try if you can confirm that's where it's leaking and not the RMS.
If you could, you could put some UV dye in the oil and get a better idea of the source of the leak. Unfortunately, you can't run the engine with the tranny off (no starter). The rear cover, pan, and RMS flange are all sealed on with International's gray sealant, and if they didn't to a good job at the intersections of the block, pan and rear cover, it could definitely leak there. I replaced the RMS on this engine not long before it died on me (coolant leak into the pan), and the flange around the RMS bolts to the rear engine cover (heavy sheet metal), so if you replace the rear cover, the RMS will have to come off with it. Can a person take off the rear plate and re-silicone it with messing up the main rear seal or then pan? In the meantime I'm wondering if the rear seal plate, not the seal, could be leaking? Do they leak between the oil pan and the bottom curved part of the rear plate seal? Is that more common than the main rear seal? I'm just wanting to get this silly thing from always marking up driveways wherever its parked over night. I've cleaned ot all off pretty good and are giving it some time sitting to see if I see any traces of oil starting to appear. It also seems that the area between the oil pan and rear plate is wet as well. Now it may be coming from somewhere else but its on both sides of the block. Now that I've got everything apart it looks like the factory gray/blue silicone from both rear block corners are getting wet with oil.
Since everyone says they very rarely ever leak at the rear main seal I've always doubted it was the main seal.but if it was any other motor I would have said that it was. Its not from the valley of the motor, turbo or pedestal, HPOP, blah, blah, blah. I've had a leak for some year snow that only seems to be getting worse. I've got the transmission out of my truck for a replacement.
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